Understanding Acne
A Holistic Approach to Acne-Prone Skin
In my mid-20s, I struggled with painful cystic acne. My bathroom was filled with every "miracle" acne products on the market. I had a long standing antibiotic prescription and tried countless harsh facial treatments with little success.
Frustrated, I adopted a strict diet eliminating wheat, dairy, sugar, and acidic foods. I swapped conventional skin care for homemade remedies like yogurt and honey masks, and embraced alkaline-rich foods like millet and kale to clear my skin.
To my surprise, my skin began to improve. It lead me to recognize the powerful connection between nutrition and skin health, ultimately inspiring me to pursue formal studies in skincare.
~Oresta
Not All Acne Is the Same
Blackheads and whiteheads are non-inflammatory forms of acne caused by clogged pores. Blackheads remain open at the skin's surface, while whiteheads are closed.
Papules and pustules are inflamed blemishes that appear red, tender, and often contain visible pus.
Cystic acne develops deep beneath the skin and is often associated with hormonal fluctuations and internal inflammation. These breakouts tend to be painful, persistent, and more likely to leave post-inflammatory marks.
Fungal acne is commonly mistaken for traditional acne but is actually caused by an overgrowth of yeast. It typically appears as clusters of small, uniform bumps that don't respond to conventional acne treatments. If your breakouts look similar and nothing seems to help, it's worth exploring this possibility.
Build a Gentle Daily Routine
One of the biggest mistakes people make when treating acne is trying to dry it out.
Harsh cleansers, aggressive exfoliants, and alcohol-heavy toners disrupt the skin barrier and trigger increased oil production. When the skin feels stripped, it often compensates by producing more sebum, creating a cycle that worsens congestion and breakouts.
Your skin should never feel tight, dry, or uncomfortable after cleansing.
A few simple habits can make a significant difference:
- Cleanse morning and evening, and after sweating
- Use warm water rather than hot or cold water
- Avoid touching your face throughout the day
- Resist the urge to pick or squeeze blemishes
When a breakout appears, focus on healing rather than squeezing. A calming treatment serum is more beneficial than harsh spot treatments that leave skin irritated and inflamed.
Oil Is Not the Enemy
If you ever had acne-prone skin, chances are that you believed that oil would clog pores and cause more breakouts on our skin. We now understand that that's not the case. OIL BALANCES OIL and healthy skin requires balance.
Plant oils such as jojoba, tamanu, black cumin seed, and hemp seed help support the skin barrier, calm inflammation, and promote a healthier complexion. Stripping away oil only encourages the skin to produce more.
The goal is not to eliminate oil—it's to support healthy oil production.
Exfoliate Gently, Mask Regularly
When it comes to exfoliation, more is not better.
For most acne-prone skin, gentle exfoliation once a week is enough to help remove dead skin cells and keep pores clear. Over-exfoliation increases sensitivity, irritation, and inflammation.
While you can over-exfoliate, you cannot over mask. Mask as often as you like. Hydrating and purifying masks can help soothe inflammation, support healing, and improve overall skin texture. Cream masks may also be applied overnight as an intensive treatment to replenish and calm the skin.
Look Beyond the Surface
Your skin is a reflection of what's happening internally.
Hormonal changes, digestive health, stress levels, sleep quality, and diet can all influence acne. While triggers vary from person to person, some people notice increased breakouts when consuming dairy, refined sugar, wheat, or soy.
Keeping a simple food and symptom journal can help identify patterns unique to your skin.
Stress is another major contributor. Elevated cortisol levels increase inflammation and oil production, making breakouts more difficult to manage.
Regular movement, dry brushing, and gua sha (avoiding active breakouts) can help support circulation and lymphatic flow while promoting overall skin health.
Perhaps most importantly, try not to let acne define how you feel about yourself. Stressing about your skin often adds another layer of inflammation to the cycle.
You are so much more than your breakouts.
Common Questions
You may be over cleansing or cleansing too aggressively. Harsh cleansers disrupt the skin barrier and stimulate excess oil production. Gentle, consistent care is far more effective.
Adult acne is extremely common, particularly among women. Hormonal fluctuations, stress, gut health, perimenopause, and changes in birth control are all common contributing factors.
While there is no universal acne diet, food sensitivities and dietary patterns can influence breakouts. Keeping a food diary can help identify personal triggers.
Hormonal fluctuations before menstruation can increase oil production and inflammation. Breakouts along the jawline, chin, and lower cheeks are associated with this pattern.
Skin renews itself approximately every four to six weeks. Give any new routine or product enough time to work before making additional changes. Consistency and patience are key.
The Bottom Line
Acne is complex, and there is rarely a single cause or a quick fix.
After more than two decades of helping clients navigate acne-prone skin, we've found that the best results come from a combination of patience, barrier-supportive skincare, healthy lifestyle habits, and realistic expectations.